Angus is a professional woodturner living and working in rural Scotland, producing wooden vessels and sculptures from my workshop in Perthshire. He has always strived to produce work of the highest quality and integrity using locally sourced native wood. Angus joined the Register of Professional Turners in 1999, has exhibited widely throughout the UK and has work in the permanent collections of the Shipley Art Gallery as well as the Scottish Parliament. All his work is started as wet wood, some is partially turned, then kiln dried for several months before being remounted and turned to completion. This eliminates the natural tensions in wood that can cause splits and cracking, this makes the finished work both flexible and stable, allowing it to cope with changes in humidity.
‘I have had numerous professions before becoming a woodturner, including; fisherman, busker, carpenter and chef. I still have many interests outside woodturning and in my free time I’m a keen gardener, forager and preserver of wild food as well as a DJ and semiprofessional photographer. All these interests contribute to and influence my creativity as a woodturner as I continually draw on my surroundings for inspiration.
Over the years I have developed many unique tools and techniques and now offer one to three day courses from my workshop in Perthshire. I am also available for demonstrations.
My woodturning can be viewed in galleries throughout Scotland or from my workshop in Perthshire. If you wish to purchase work from me directly please contact me for directions and opening times or images of available work.’ Angus Clyne
Techniques and Finishes
Turning and carving
All the wood I use is locally sourced, i.e. it comes from farms, gardens and local forests, it is almost always from windblown trees or trees that have had to be removed because they are dead, dangerous of have been cleared for new roads and houses etc.
When the wood arrives at my workshop it is still fresh, wet and in the round. I usually leave the logs lying outside to age and spalt. Spalted wood has been attacked by fungus and often has spectacular colouring with distinctive black lines running through it, when the wood is dry the spalting is stable and will not change or fade with sunlight.
When I feel the time is right to use the wood I rough it into shape with a chainsaw before mounting it on my lathe for turning. As the wood for large vessels is wet and can weigh hundreds of kilos it can take several hours to get a large piece of wood into my workshop and mounted safely on the lathe. To turn large work I have had to adapt and make my own specialised tools, these are all hand held and can be up to five feet long.
All my work is started as wet wood, some is partially turned, then kiln dried for several months before being remounted and turned to completion. Larger work, natural edged bowls and vases are often turned to completion from wet wood then left to dry before being polishing off the lathe. All wet turned work will have shrunk during drying and is sometimes slightly oval or wrinkled. Both these ways of working eliminate the natural tensions in wood that can cause splits and cracking, this makes my finished work both flexible and stable, allowing it to cope with changes in humidity from Summer to Winter as well as stress from central heating and direct sunlight etc.
Some parts of my work is black and textured this is generally achieved with a gas blow torch or pyrography machine, after burning it is wire brushed and cut back to reveal the unburnt wood underneath.
If its a bowl and you can put something in it like fruit, it’s nearly always finished with Rustins Danish Oil, this is a food safe waterproof finish that has been applied to the bare wood and built up in layers over several days. Danish Oil can be reapplied as and when needed, (I have not had to re-oil a bowl in the last twelve years) you can clean work like this with a damp cloth.
If it is a vase it will usually have a paste wax polish on it, I use Liberton Black Bison, Neutral Wax, this is a high gloss finish which shouldnít need any further treatments unless it gets wet, water will dull the surface polish and make it opaque but will not effect the wood underneath. If this happens all that is needed to bring back the shine is a good rub with a duster, cloth or kitchen roll, if this doesn’t work a further coat of good quality wax polish will do the job.